Chapter 1 Basic knowledge of fabrics 1. Fabrics are mainly divided into: non-woven fabrics and textile fabrics. From another dimension, they are divided into natural fabrics and non-natural fabrics. Seen from a more detailed dimension natural a. plant fiber, such as: cotton, hemp, fruit fiber b. animal fiber, such as: wool, hair-free, silk c. Mineral fibers, such as: asbestos Unnatural a. Recycled fibers, such as: viscose, acetate, tencel, modal, lyssel, bamboo fiber, etc. b. Synthetic fibers, such as: nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex, lycra, etc. c. Inorganic fibers, such as: glass fiber, metal fiber, etc. 2. From the perspective of textile technology: Woven: The fabric structure is stable and has no elasticity (except for the fabric with elastic fiber). The cloth surface is flat, solid and durable, and the appearance is crisp and loose. It is simply not close to the body. If it is broken, it will not be seen. Knitting: The fabric is rich in elasticity, the fabric is soft to the touch, comfortable and fit, breathable and easy to disperse. Simply speaking, the more you cross the big. Hanging a hole and pulling a hole. The grade of the fabric is: (does not distinguish between printing and dyeing process) Low-grade fabric: ordinary chemical fiber Ordinary fabric: general cotton, hemp. Intermediate fabric: intermediate chemical fiber fabric such as Lycra and Tencel, natural and blended, tussah silk, long-staple cotton, ordinary leather, etc. High-grade fabrics: wool, mulberry silk, (fabric), calfskin, lambskin and other high-quality leather materials, fox skin and other common fur Top fabrics: sheep (camel), heavy silk fabrics, precious leather, suede and other high-grade fur Summary of the shortcomings of some common fabrics Cotton: below ordinary long-staple cotton, it will harden after repeated washing Colored cotton: only brown and green Hemp: not anti-wrinkle, easy to fade, easy to reduce mold Ordinary silk: easy to shrink, not acid, defensive Wool (fleece: easy to grow insects. Artificial cotton: easy to stick Modal: easy to pilling, wrinkle Tencel: Hard and hot environment hardens Ice silk: easy to wire, harden Bamboo fiber: easy to break 3. From the perspective of consumption and business , the difference between good fabrics and general fabrics is not so obvious, and even the clothing of general fabrics may be more expensive than good fabrics. But in the traditional luxury industry, any non-natural fabrics can't be worn. So the answer to the question is that unless it is 100% natural fiber fabric, any fabric with chemical fiber is not too good. This is in line with the traditional jewellery industry, all the semi-precious stones (including tourmaline, sea sapphire) can not stand on the face, because they are "semi-precious stones." So why should cotton fabrics add 2% of other chemical fibers? It is to make up for some of the shortcomings of cotton fabrics. There are advantages and disadvantages to this. The advantage is that you can enjoy it at a low price, or you can achieve almost 80% of the feeling of high-quality fabrics, or solve some small problems in daily wear. The elimination is that once you start to accept the taste, it gradually becomes bad. For example, 24K gold, everyone knows to preserve value, but soft, if you change to 18K gold, hard, all happy, but not worth it. The old man who really wears gold ornaments, not 999 gold does not shoot. The future is indeed the world of blending, but this is just business, not taste. Luxury goods are originally only used by a few people. Once popular, their gold content will gradually decrease, such as LV. The United States is such an example of the fall of fashion taste. Many Americans will take it for granted that jeans pullovers are enough to dress, because JOBS wears them, but they don’t know, when JOBS goes to the White House, he still wears big suits and tie, he shows you The public image that arrives is definitely not his complete image. Even his pullover is the worsted wool of Issey Miyake. St. Croix's 175 dollars is just a copy. This is why Bush’s behavior is always a joke in Europe. If you don’t want to be stunned, please don’t follow the crowd. Everyone wears this, not the reason why you wear it. That glass ceiling is the unspoken rule. For example, in the book "Style", the upper-level people can detect the "single-point polyester component in an Oxford cloth shirt" because it is a sad middle class symbol. The Official Preppy Handbook also praised Carnegie Kennedy, President of President Kennedy, “Strictly speaking, she is more precosical in her clothes and manners than her mother†– because “four years at Harvard Square†Among them, any unnatural fiber could not be close to her body. And Tencel, Modal, Lessel, and bamboo fiber are all chemical fibers, not natural fibers. Of course, fabrics blended with natural fabrics are also among the best fabrics, such as silk and cashmere blends. 4. The price of fabric can not be singularly from a single fabric. For example, if a designer splicing leather and silk, then the two fabrics are not expensive, and it is very expensive to put together. The physical properties of the fabric are completely different, and how to blend it is a very high learning. For example, this style is unremarkable, but no one dares to ignore this dress. Chapter 2: Cotton and linen fabrics and silk fabrics 1. Cotton fabric differentiation Simple, the thicker the velvet, the finer the cotton is, the better the air permeability and the better the gloss. It can be made very thin, not easy to break, and the body feel is good. Generally speaking, the higher the number of needles (some called the number of roots), the better the fabric, but not too absolute. General fabric: short staple cotton Good fabric: ordinary long-staple cotton island cotton horse cotton High quality fabric: Egyptian cotton (for luxury brands) The main difference between cotton is to look Egyptian cotton is a general term for a long-staple cotton category. The original Egyptian cotton is the real Egyptian cotton. It is called Pima cotton in the United States and Peru. It grows in other parts of the United States and Peru, mainly South and North America. In the island area and the Australian area, it is called island cotton. These three kinds of cotton actually belong to one big category, and ordinary people can't distinguish fabrics. In addition, Xinjiang, China is also planted with ang And the introduction of cotton varieties, the market is a lot of "Egyptian cotton" is this, but the quality is very different. In terms of price, Egyptian cotton > Pima cotton > Island cotton > domestic Egyptian cotton. 2. Count and number of stitches Two concepts that are often said: one is called the count, the other is the number of stitches (the number of roots) The count refers to the thick line of the thread, which is indicated by S, such as 100S, also called 100. The higher the number of branches per unit area, the thinner the line and the thinner the fabric. There are still double-share single-shares, so I won’t say much. Is it good for Mao to say that Egyptian cotton is good? Because of the high count of cotton, short-staple cotton can not be woven. The number of stitches refers to the density of the fabric. With (t)(c), the oldest way is that T is polyester. C is pure cotton TC is blended, but now it is generally expressed by T, and it is definitely expressed by C. It is pure cotton. Now the American style is generally called T, such as a bedding, called 200T. What does the 200 needle mean? For example, a piece of fabric, the British standard method generally marks 133 * 72, meaning that in 1 inch: 133 warp yarns, 72 weft yarns. Then 133 plus 72 will wait until 205, and the American density standard will be simplified to 200T. But this density mark, the general bed products only say the number of the number, clothing does not say. The number of counts and the number of stitches are generally complementary, and there are high branches to have high density, such as 40S cotton fabric, generally 250T, 200T, Simply tell everyone a criterion Slag level: 30 or less bedding for under 40 shirts, below 200T Ordinary level: shirt 40-60 bedding products 300T-600T Good level: 60 shirts - 100 bedding products 800T-1000T, negative two students said that "80 or more high cotton is close to the texture of the silk" is a bit of a problem, in fact, the difference is very big. More than 80 pieces are silky, so there is a saying of mercerized cotton, but now the concept of mercerized cotton is very broad. Good level: 100 shirts - 140 beds 1000T - 1400T (from this stage is the real big fabric choice) Luxury level: more than 140 shirts, bedding products above 1400T but note that the higher the better, the 140 cotton fabric yarns are already very thin and thin, and the summer shirts will feel too thin and uncomfortable, so The mainstream is still 120-140S, and the bedding products above 1400T are generally very heavy and expensive. In the same way, if the bed is more than 80S, it will feel too thin, and the texture will not be light, especially when sleeping at night. If it is not a bed, it will be easy to slide. So don't blindly pursue indicators and look at your personal feelings on a digital basis. Why are there not a lot of clothes on the clothes? Because they generally have a low number of branches, they will not be marked. Generally, as long as the fabrics are used well, most of them will be happy to mark them. Extended reading: If you specify the density according to the English method, besides paying attention to the added value of the two numbers, you should also pay attention to the difference between the previous number (the number of numbers) and the number of the next number (the number of latitudes). For example, the same 40, 133 * 100 is better than 133 * 72, if you encounter 128 * 68 such a strange, directly called him to roll thick. For example: Taobao a propaganda "128*68 combed cotton twill, high-quality extra-spun high-density twill cotton printed cloth, high-yarn high-density fabric produced by combing process, comfort, breathability, hygroscopicity Good!" No matter how many propaganda words are used, it can't be high-density yarns, so you can only scam the white friends. The value of 128*68 completely sells his essence. So friends, there must be standards in everything, like cars, displacement, wheelbase, acceleration from zero to one hundred kilometers are all data, not that you just say that your car has more cattle to complete. Next time Taobao, students please go directly to ask the value. How to judge without looking at the value? Look at the luster, look at the feel, look at the sense of body, simply say, wear more, touch more, you will know, Linyuan squid will never have a way. 3. Shirt fabric: Thomas Mason, Switzerland Alumo, Switzerland Monti, Italy Leggiuno, Italy Testa, Italy Albini is a good fabric factory. The next time you see a big shirt with a fabric label like this, you know that its shirt is good. 4. Summary of the characteristics of mulberry silk fabric: (only as wearing clothes, not to mention bedding) Plain satin: regular fabric, smooth, shrinking, can be used as a shirt. Keep it easy to wrinkle Double eyes: uneven, good breathability. Dressed as a skirt, easy to wrinkle. Tourmaline: thicker than double scorpion, thick twill, shrinking water, wearing a skirt casually wrinkle. 绫: Twill, not comfortable to wear, thin. General fabrics (in ancient silk fabrics, enamel, enamel, brocade, enamel, brocade, silk, silk, enamel are good silk fabrics, 绫 and 绡 are not worth the money, so they say | "half red 绡 绡 绫 绫" Georgette yarn: easy to hook yarn, in addition to making a scarf is useless Double palace silk: rough, tight and crisp, soft and creased, make evening dresses and shirts are not easy to wrinkle. Taffeta: Degumming, smoothing, stiff, hard, but there will be permanent creases, can only be hung, good evening dresses, not wrinkled. Jacquard silk: The silk on the reverse side (the bottom material) is made of the front silk (pattern) jacquard, which is divided into positive and negative, and can only be used as a coat, which is uncomfortable to wear. Keep it good and not wrinkle. Heavy silk: 16 meters or more is already close to heaven. Not easy to wrinkle. Mumi, the unit weight of silk, gram weight, expressed in mm, generally more than 12mm can be called heavy silk, Emma's silk scarf is so expensive, because it has reached 22mm or more. But the Mimi number is not the only standard for silk, but also the printing and dyeing process, not to mention here. 5. Linen One of the best fabrics of summer, breathable, is love wrinkles, but thick. Some brands hold it to the sky for marketing needs, because it is easy to wrinkle, so it feels expensive. In the past, those who were in the upper class changed their shirts five times a day, and they wore linen. Of course, after they had silk, they would not change. Only this big name is not used for publicity.) The linen and high-blend shirts are very good, and the pocket Towel is also the basis of linen. Chapter III Wool Cashmere Fabric 1. Basic knowledge The first thing to know is that wool fabrics can only talk about wool, rabbit hair, please ask him to go. There is only pure in the wool, there is no 100% saying, more than 95% can be called pure X. Once again, we must know that wool and cashmere are basically incomparable. Simply put, in the same case, the warmth of cashmere is 8 times that of wool and the weight is one-fifth of wool, so it is no problem to call soft gold. The colder the place, the better the cashmere. There is no way, the environment is forced. The advantages and disadvantages of cashmere wool fabrics are generally calculated by the number of counts (in fact, the fineness of the fibers, the finer the more expensive the better), many people think that wearing wool coats is difficult in winter, because the woolen coat is heavy, it is because you bought They are the worst wools, and there are no counts. They are all like a linoleum. Of course, this is the case. The worsted sheep (down) coat is not heavy at all. It is really thin and warm. I am a meter 68, a coat that grows under the knee. If there is no problem in the winter, it will be less than 1.5KG. At this point, Burberry's horn buckle coat is too unreasonable in most parts of China (poor my tuition), and each piece is as heavy as iron. Once again, we must know that wool and cashmere fabrics also talk about the number of counts. Low grade: 50% or less of wool Middle and low grade: 50%-95% of wool (do not talk about the count if it is not pure wool) High-grade: pure wool fabric with more than 95% wool, 100-120 Luxury: 120 or less - 180 wool over 100 is close to cashmere 1 Top luxury: more than 180 pure wool fabrics, such as Shijiabao's famous and most expensive SUPER250, the industry nicknamed "Super Two Hundred and Five" So what is the beautiful slave wool merino wool? Simply put, it is the wool closest to cashmere. Still speaking by numerical values. The diameter of a person's hair is about 75 microns, while the cashmere is usually 17 microns (the quality cashmere is at least 15 microns). The beautiful slave wool can reach a diameter of about 20 microns, but the effect is similar, but the output is definitely larger than cashmere. Therefore, the beautiful slave wool can be used as an alternative to entry-level cashmere to some extent. Good wool fabric ranking: from low to high Mohair (Angola wool, about 25 microns - - beautiful slave wool - mohair (Angola wool) - cashmere Cashmere (19 micron) - Himalayan cashmere pashimina - cashmere mixed with Tibetan antelope and Himalayan goat, also has Himalayan The top of the cashmere is called shahpashm - Capra-Hircus Scottish sheep belly cashmere - Shatoosh Tibetan antelope (know how it is extinct) However, at the top of all wool fabrics, there is a god-like existence, that is, alpaca! Yes, the grass mud horse classmate (alpaca) hair is softer than cashmere, the top Vicuna alpaca hair, less than 11 microns in diameter, and almost vacuum inside! Moreover, it can't afford the ball, it doesn't shrink! Of course, the most authentic alpaca is only Vicuna, but it is a commercial development. The small species of the alpaca are also being stuffed, but in fact, although they are expensive, the fineness of the fiber may not be Cashmere above a high count. This is not the same as the high-grade coupe without the mid-range pure sports car acceleration. In the world of alpaca, the ranking is like this. Huacaya (20 micron) Explanation: Alpaca: Alpaca Alpaca, which contains two types, Huacaya and Suri Alpaca Alpaca add up to less than 5,000 tons per year. Huacaya: Huakayo, a large number of rearing, fiber fineness and merino wool is the cheapest among grass horses Suri: Suli is raised in small amounts, with long fiber, brightness, no scales, suitable for worsted, fiber fineness, etc. is basically the same as Angora wool, the price is three times that of Huakayo. L.lama - Big Alpaca, also known as Llama, Australia has started to raise a lot of food. The annual global production is about 600 tons. The fiber has no lanolin. The price is between Huakayo and Suli. The above two are a large number of breeding species, the following two are basically wild or rarely artificial breeding Vicuna: The annual global production of llama is less than 4 tons. The preciousness is similar to that of Tibetan antelope. Its fiber is as thin as 11 microns. It is hollow inside, the warmest and most expensive. Guanaco: Camel, similar to vicuna, but not vicuna, but the output is also small, the price is a little cheaper than vicuna. 2. Practical knowledge Ways to pay attention to buying wool and cashmere: A, do not use the method of burning, this judgment can not come out, because you can mix rabbit hair. Cashmere that doesn't dare to be washed is not good cashmere. B, the better the cashmere (hair) fabric, the color must be the original raw light, the deep purple red is generally not a good fabric (except special), in simple terms, is a beautiful woman who dares to face the sky, heavy makeup Generally, what to cover. C. Don't look at the counts. The finishing of the fabrics of Dachang is well done. The texture of 100 can kill 130 small factories. D. Don't just think that the ring velvet is good. There is a difference between “close and thin†and “thin and thinâ€. The real ring velvet must be more than 200. E. Look at the logo of the sweater. The standard sf24/s 26s/2, 28s/2 is woollen, and the higher is worsted, such as 48s/2 60/s 120/s. F, the number of needles in cashmere sweaters and the number of needles in fabrics are different. In simple terms, 7-pin 9-pin cashmere sweaters are thick. In winter, a coat in Beijing plus a 7-pin 9-pin cashmere sweater is OK, 12-pin-16 needles. Not thick enough, it is enough to wear down, 18 needles are worn in summer. The benefits of G, silk and cashmere blends are not as big as the propaganda. In short, I don’t buy this kind of blended fabric. Because the body feels better, it doesn’t keep warm. One is long and one is short. Cashmere, if the technology is poor, it will not mix together. Moreover, the silk is originally fine (12 micron) domestic fabric. If the standard is 120 silk wool blends, the quality is much worse than the pure 120 wool. Foreign fabrics are more conscience, and the standard definition is 120S mixed silk, which means that the wool I originally used is 120. H, cashmere must let it rest, good fabrics are like this, including lambskin, or the structure is getting bigger and bigger, it is easy to be invisible. Simply put, cashmere sweaters wear a day, let it rest for a day. Let the fiber stretched out by gravity slowly move back. Conscience gift: How to distinguish true and false sweaters in the case of little experience, take X Doss as an example. Look at the tag and make a fake. Really the color of the tag will not have a "color word, that is, it will only say dark gray does not say dark gray. The real tag inspection label must be affixed instead of printed. In the real craft column, there must be a standard process, such as worsted worsted, jacquard or something, not only a half-high collar zipper. The different sweater styles and craft numbers of different styles are definitely different. The fake one is a general purpose of the tag, and there are standards for implementation. Too complicated, I will not say it. 3. Suit fabric In the world of suit fabrics, Britain is always better than Italy, and there is no such thing as the United States and other countries. English fabric: thicker, wear in autumn and winter NO. 1 Scabal (scabal): the king of fabrics, expensive, a suit to do down the domestic custom shop 3, 40,000. NO. 2 Dormeuil: France, very like British goods, cost-effective, post-finishing well done, 120 can make 140 people's standards, but the price is too high, many custom stores are not in stock. NO. 3 Holland & Sherry: The product line is full, but the features are not outstanding, because most of it is done in Italy, is Carlo Barbera Italian fabric: lighter, wear in spring and summer NO. 1 Ermenegildo Zegna Trofeo and 13Milmil13 series are good NO. 2 Loro piana: The top cashmere is not bragging, not dazzling, and low-key. NO. 3 Cerruti 1881, VBC tied for everyday suits is best There is also a special Carlo Barbera, which is said above. Hong Kong Institute of Fashion Buying Newton Business School Newton Business School - Hong Kong Fashion Buyers College NBS official website: IFB official website: Reply to IFB Learn about Fashion Buyers and Management MBA Programs Reply to EMBA to learn about the International Fashion Management EMBA program Reply to MBA to understand the fashion retail management MBA program Reply to IFM Learn about international buyers and fashion management Italian classes Reply 1 Learn about recent college news Reply 2 Learn about the latest fashion news Reply 3 Learn about professional buyer knowledge Reply 4 Learn about buyer recruitment information Please pay attention to WeChat public account: HK-IFB IFB Hong Kong • IFB Shenzhen • IFB Shanghai • IFB Taiwan TEL/18926566982
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